Going Around the Bend
GOING AROUND THE BEND
(And Staying in Control Along the Way)
By Paul Nuccio, Regional Lead Instructor, Harley-Davidson Rider’s Edge®
One of the great joys of motorcycling is skillful cornering: artfully working your way through a curvy, twisting road in complete control of your machine.
You know what I mean: Slowing to just the right entry speed, looking ahead to see what the curve holds in store, pressing on the handgrip in the direction of the turn, then rolling on the throttle and accelerating smoothly through the curve.
What’s that? You say that’s not what you’re thinking when you ride through a curve? Then maybe it’s just the instructor in me that thinks that way. Or maybe it’s that the proper cornering technique I just described has become a part of you, and you do it without thinking about it.
Or maybe – just maybe – you never learned that technique, and you’ve just been winging it all these years (or months, as the case may be).
Whatever your level of experience and/or formal training, it never hurts to brush up on your cornering. After all: Cornering mistakes are a common cause of motorcycle crashes.
Let’s start by taking an in-depth look at the method officially prescribed by Rider’s Edge and the Motorcycle Safety Foundation (MSF): Slow, Look, Press, and Roll.
SLOW
The first key to proper cornering is to enter the curve at the right speed. Usually, this means slowing down – either by braking (remember to always use both front and rear brakes) or by simply rolling off the throttle. In either case, remember that it’s always better to err on the side of entering too slow. This is especially true on unfamiliar roads, where you may not know how sharp the turn is or what lies beyond it.
If you go in too slow, you can always speed up as you go through the curve. But if you go in too hard … well, now you’re opening yourself up to some unfortunate possibilities.
For one thing, braking in a turn is problematic. It compromises your traction and increases the risk of going into a skid or losing control of the motorcycle. If you’re going too fast and don’t brake, you risk crossing the centerline (and facing the obvious potential consequences), or running off the road entirely into who knows what. (According to the MSF, running off the road, usually in a curve, accounts for more than 40 percent of motorcycle fatalities.)
Another important thing to remember is to downshift (if necessary) as you slow down, because you want the motorcycle to be in the proper gear when you get to Step 4, rolling on the throttle.
To summarize: Use both brakes, downshift if necessary, and err on the side of entering a turn too slowly.
LOOK
Approaching a turn at the proper entry speed also gives you the best opportunity to execute Step 2: turning your head and looking where you want the motorcycle to go. Keep your eyes up, turn your head in the direction of the turn, and look as far ahead into the turn as you can. This accomplishes (at least) two things: It helps you gather as much information as possible about what lies ahead, and it helps tell the rest of your body what to do.
Look for what may lie ahead: the sharpness of the curve, potential obstacles, gravel, an animal, wet leaves … anything that would prevent you from negotiating the curve as you might like to. React as needed by slowing further, adjusting your line, or even executing an emergency stop, if necessary. As I like to put it: Be paranoid. It only takes one completely unexpected event or circumstance to end your riding day … or worse.
One of the things many instructors harp on (or should I say “emphasize”) on the training range is the head-turning component. It doesn’t come naturally to a lot of riders, and the benefits aren’t necessarily obvious. “I am looking through the turn but with my peripheral vision,” is a common defense.
But it’s not just about seeing. Turning your head in the direction of the turn, I believe, helps “alert” your body to your intentions. Whether it’s the balance neurosensors in your inner ear getting involved or whether it’s a purely psychological phenomenon, I can’t say for sure. But it definitely seems to have an effect.
PRESS
As you enter the turn, initiate the turn by pressing forward on the handgrip in the direction of the turn (e.g., press the left handgrip to make a left turn). This will cause the bike to lean in the direction you want it to go. This technique is called “countersteering,” a phenomenon of physics that can be confusing or even controversial. But for our purposes here, it’s probably best to think of it in these simple terms: Press left, lean left, go left. Press right, lean right, go right.
Here’s another tip I like to use on the range: Don’t just press forward, but down and forward. I tell students to press toward the front axle of their motorcycle. It’s a more natural motion than pressing directly forward (depending on the configuration of your bike) and may help you get a better feel for how the motorcycle responds.
| PATH OF TRAVEL | ||
| A. In a standard corner, such as the right-hand one illustrated here, approach by setting up in the outside of the curve (away from the direction of the turn), as shown, then go toward the inside of the curve as you enter it. As you exit, return to the outside position. This gives you the most direct line through the turn, resulting in a more gradual, more controlled turn. | B. In an “S” curve such as this one, look again for the most direct line. In this case, it means starting again on the outside, hugging the inside line through the curve, then returning to the outside position upon exiting. Note that in this example, the rider exits the turn in the right-hand lane position. Once you are clear of the turn, return to the preferred lane positioning. | C. The proper approach to a decreasing-radius turn is very similar. Again, approach from the outside position, then work your way inside through the length of the curve. This gives you more margin for error on the outside should you find yourself caught off guard by the sharpness of the curve. Note: A decreasing-radius turn provides an exception to the Slow, Look, Press, and Roll technique, in that you should maintain a steady throttle through the curve and not accelerate until you are well on your way out of the curve. |
| Diagrams based on information provided by the Motorcycle Safety Foundation. | ||
ROLL
The last step in the process, rolling on the throttle through the turn, is also somewhat counterintuitive (like countersteering). Students often think to themselves, “Why would I want to speed up in a turn?” It’s not how people turn in cars. But a motorcycle is different (to state the obvious). It has a lot more “inputs” than a car does and will handle better if you roll smoothly on the throttle (not “gun it”) through a turn.
Perhaps the most important word in that last sentence is “smoothly.” Keeping a steady hand on the throttle will help stabilize the bike as you corner and keep it from experiencing a “rocking horse” effect. Any time you’re in a turn, you want the suspension to be stable to maximize handling ability and traction. On the range, instructors will often check for a steady throttle by listening. If they hear a lot of rrr-rrr-rrr (instead of a steady rrrrrrr), they know the throttle is not steady.
Of course, you don’t necessarily want to accelerate throughout a turn – but you don’t want to coast, either. On longer curves, maintain a steady speed through the middle, then accelerate out of it. One reason for accelerating out is that it will naturally help pull the bike back into an upright, vertical position.
THE RIGHT LINE
Another important aspect of proper cornering is choosing the right “line.” In most basic situations, that means taking an “outside-inside-outside” path through the curve.
What this technique does is “flatten out the turn”; that is, take the most direct path through the turn. It takes best advantage of the full width of road and allows you to take a turn less sharply. It involves less leaning and braking, which gives you better traction. Plus, if you were to suddenly find yourself in a predicament, it puts you in a better position to straighten up the motorcycle and stop quickly.
A more advanced cornering technique is called a “delayed apex” turn.
This technique is not the most “efficient” (that is, “fastest”) way through a turn, but it can be useful when you have reason to believe the approaching turn may hold a surprise.
Perhaps you can see that you’ll be turning into a shaded area, and you’re concerned there may be moisture or even ice on the road. Or a gravel driveway looms just beyond the turn.
Basically, a delayed apex turn involves swinging a little wider than normal as you approach, then turning a little more sharply a little deeper into the turn. This gives you a better angle of view to scout out potential hazards. It also means you’ll be turning a little bit more sharply, so adjust your entry speed accordingly – in other words, “slow down!” Once you see that the road ahead is clear, you can roll on the throttle with greater confidence.
CORNERING IN GROUPS
Another common question is: “When I’m riding in a group, should I stay in the staggered formation through a curve or take my best line?”
The answer is … it depends. Through gentle curves, it’s usually best to stay in formation. But through tighter “twisties,” riding in single file is probably better – as long as you’re all on the same page.
What I recommend is talking to the ride leader before the ride or asking the question during the pre-ride meeting: “Are you going to give the single-file signal when we go through curvy roads?” The answer you want to hear is, “Yes.”
When the single-file sign is given, it’s also important to remember to adjust your following distance. In staggered formation, the normal following distance to the rider immediately ahead of you (in the opposite side of the lane) is one second. When you switch to single-file, that rider will be directly in front of you, so you should ease your way back to create more space: two seconds or more is recommended.
The most important thing to remember is: Don’t do anything you’re not comfortable with. Group riding can create a sort of “peer pressure.” Don’t succumb to it. If they’re taking curves (whether in formation or single-file) too fast for your comfort level, don’t be afraid to speak up. If they don’t take your concerns seriously, you may not want to ride with that group anymore.
| “DELAYED APEX” TURN |
| A “delayed apex” turn is a technique that gives you a better opportunity to see around a curve before making the turn. Approach a little more slowly than you otherwise might and go a little deeper into the curve before starting your turn. As you enter, turn your head and get a good look at what’s around the corner, then, if everything’s “all clear”, press on the handlebars in the direction of the turn and roll on the throttle as you exit. It’s not the quickest way through, but it’s the more prudent approach in certain situations. |
GET THE EDGE
Of course, the best ways to improve your cornering skills are 1) take a class, and 2) practice. If you’ve never taken a basic MSF or Rider’s Edge course before, you’ll be surprised how much you’ll learn – even if you’ve been riding for years. If you have taken one before, consider taking an Experienced Rider Course. Contact your local Harley-Davidson dealership to find out if they offer the Rider’s Edge New Rider Course or Skilled Rider Course.
A WORD ABOUT COUNTERSTEERING
Chances are, you learned how to countersteer when you were five or six years old. Because if you’ve ever ridden a bicycle, you’ve utilized this mysterious technique, whether you realized it or not.
Crudely put, countersteering means turning the handlebars to the left to make the bike (or motorcycle) go to the right or vice versa. It’s a counterintuitive concept, something of a phenomenon of physics, often the subject of fascinating debate (and arguments), and can easily confuse riders more than it clarifies things. But here’s the scoop …
What keeps a motorcycle upright is not your amazing balancing skill but the gyroscopic effect of the spinning wheels. That’s why it’s so stable at speed, but falls over so readily when you slow down or stop. These gyroscopic forces do some unexpected things. For instance, when you push on the right handgrip, turning the front wheel slightly to the left, the gyroscopic effect pushes the bike into a right-hand lean. And this lean is what initiates the turn.
It’s not necessary to understand the science of countersteering, but understanding its effects can help you be a better rider. For instance, if you find yourself fighting your bike to make your line as you go through a curve, there’s a good chance it’s because you’re trying to “steer”it instead of “countersteer”it. Next time you find yourself in that situation, try pushing on the handgrip in the direction of the turn – and marvel at how readily your bike dives into that corner!
Braking News
Sooner or later, you have to slow down!
By Marianne Taylor, Regional Lead Instructor, Harley-Davidson Rider’s Edge®
Sometimes it seems like people are always talking about going faster (or quicker) on a motorcycle. More horsepower. More efficient cornering. Lighter components.
But when you get right down to it, the importance of going fast absolutely pales in comparison to the importance of being able to slow down – and stop – efficiently, effectively, and safely.
On the surface, the whole process seems quite simple: You squeeze/press on the brakes, and the bike slows down and stops. But the factors that allow riders to brake most effectively are many – and go well beyond what you may have learned in your basic motorcycle safety class.
Let’s start with the basics and work toward the advanced.
BRAKING IN A STRAIGHT LINE
To slow down and stop in a straight line, apply both front and rear brakes simultaneously, in a smooth, coordinated fashion. As you slow down, pull in the clutch and downshift – all the way to first gear for a complete stop. If you don’t pull in the clutch, the motorcycle may stall as you stop. By downshifting as you slow, you ensure you’ll be in the proper gear when you’re ready to accelerate, whether from a complete stop or a slower speed.
| As you apply the front brake, the weight of the motorcycle shifts forward, giving the front brake considerably more stopping power than the rear. |
In emergency situations, where you want to stop as quickly as possible, the same technique applies. Squeeze the front brake lever smoothly and firmly while pressing on the rear brake pedal, taking care not to lock up either wheel. Keep your eyes up and looking straight ahead, not down at your front wheel or the road directly in front of you. This will help you keep the bike in a straight line as you slow and stop.
Remember: The rule of thumb is your front brake provides about 70 percent of your stopping power, so using the rear brake only (a bad habit that’s easy to fall into, especially at slow speeds) deprives you of considerable stopping ability. There are also still some misconceptions out there about the “dangers” of using too much front brake. The fear is that if you overdo it with the front, the motorcycle could pitch forward and throw you over the handlebars – or even flip the bike over altogether.
With today’s motorcycles, however (especially a relatively heavy one, like a Harley-Davidson®), it would be quite difficult to make that happen, even if you were trying. The truth is, the front brake is your friend. The key is to apply it properly.
In fact, in high-speed, quick-stopping situations, your front brake may actually provide much more than 70 percent of your stopping power. In the case of a light, short-wheelbase model (think of the Buell® Firebolt® or Lightning® models, for example), where it is possible to raise the rear wheel off the ground in a sudden stop, it may even provide 100 percent. Here’s why:
As you apply the front brake, the front suspension compresses, and the weight of your motorcycle (including you, your passenger, and whatever load you may be carrying) is shifted forward onto your front wheel (and away from your rear wheel). This increase in weight results in an increase in traction, which is where the additional stopping power comes from. If it shifts so far forward that your rear wheel is about to leave the ground, that means virtually 100 percent of the stopping power is being provided by the front brake.
Normally, the limiting factors here are how well the brake pads grab the rotors and how well your tires grip the road. When your tire starts to skid, it loses friction (traction) and, therefore, stopping power. On older motorcycles with older, less “sticky” tires and less effective brakes, it was easier to brake hard enough to lock up the front wheel – a potentially dangerous situation. This is probably where some of the “fear” of using the front brake comes from. (It may also come from riding a bicycle, where grabbing a handful of front brake could very well throw a rider over the handlebars.)
Advances in modern brake and tire technology make it harder to lock up the front wheel in good conditions on a clean road surface. Additionally, modern motorcycles tend to have a lower center of gravity than those of, say, 30 years ago, which further decreases the chances that the bike itself might flip over the handlebars.
So use that front brake with confidence! Don’t be afraid to apply it firmly (but smoothly) to provide maximum stopping power
STREET STRATEGIES
Making sure to allow sufficient following distance for conditions – and using the “Rider Radar” skills taught in the Basic RiderCourse – should be considered part of your overall “braking technique.” Keep in mind that there are three distinct components in the time and distance required to stop your motorcycle:
Perception time – The time it takes your brain to realize a riding situation calls for you to slow down or stop.
Reaction time – The time it takes your body to physically respond to your brain’s command to apply the brakes; that is, to move your hand and foot to the respective front and rear brake, and begin to squeeze/press.
Braking time – The time it takes for the bike to actually stop (or slow to the necessary speed, such as when approaching an unexpected curve).
By being alert and focusing on the road ahead, you can cut down your stopping distance considerably. Even at a relatively modest speed of 40 mph, you and your bike are covering about 60 feet per second – which means that even a half-second delay in squeezing that front brake adds 30 feet to your overall stopping distance. This can easily be the difference between a good scare and a serious accident!
| BRAKING IN A CURVE |
| When conditions allow, straighten your bike first and brake in a straight line (bottom). Otherwise, brake as you turn and straighten your bike just before you come to a complete stop. |
And keep in mind that the car behind you probably can’t stop as quickly as you can. If you’re in traffic and slowing to stop, try to check traffic behind you and flash your brake light if you can to make your action more visible.
So pay attention! Cover your brakes when you see potential hazards ahead. This will help minimize your reaction time.
APPROACHING A CURVE
As a general rule of thumb, riders should slow their bikes to the desired speed before entering a curve. In most cases, slight acceleration through the curve is then warranted to help stabilize the bike as you exit.
As you may recall, the correct sequence of actions for approaching a curve, as outlined by the Motorcycle Safety Foundation (MSF) is “Slow, Look, Press, and Roll”: Slow your bike to the desired speed; Look through and beyond the turn by turning your head; Pressforward on the handgrip in the direction you want the bike to turn; Roll on the throttle smoothly throughout the turn.
In most cases, it’s very important to slow your bike before you enter the turn or curve. Braking during a curve causes several things to happen. For one thing, when the bike is in a lean, some of your tires’ available traction is used to make the turn, so stopping power is reduced. Thus, it becomes a little easier to lock up the front or rear wheel in that situation.
Locking the front wheel in the middle of a turn will usually result in a “low-side” fall: falling in the same direction that the bike is leaning. Though a dangerous situation, it’s generally not as bad as the dreaded “high-side.” This results when the rear wheel locks up momentarily but then regains traction after the bike begins to turn sideways, throwing the rider over the high side of the bike, which has a much greater potential for personal injury than a low-side.
Unfortunately, the natural reaction when the rear wheel begins to slide is to let up on the brake – which is exactly what causes the bike to high-side. The lesser of two evils in this situation is usually to stay on the brake, let the bike slide out from under you, and take your chances with a low-side fall.
BRAKING IN A CURVE
Though it’s best to avoid it when possible, there are situations in which you’ll need to slow down or stop in the middle of a curve. There are two basic ways to do this effectively.
If you have enough room on the roadway and traffic conditions permit – depending on how fast you’re traveling – it’s better to straighten the motorcycle and then brake. In this case, you’re not really braking in a curve, however; you’re braking in a straight line, within a curve. Remember: Some of your traction is used up from turning the bike, so it’s easier to lock the wheels or lose traction. In addition, as you apply the brakes, the same forces that push the bike’s weight forward as you slow will also make the bike want to straighten up on its own. So be prepared; you may have to push a little harder on the inside handlebar to keep the bike turning.
As you slow to a stop, however, with the bike still in a lean, the force of gravity will make the bike want to fall over. So it’s important to get the motorcycle straightened up just before you come to a complete stop. Or, before you know it, you may find yourself in need of an article about how to pick a motorcycle up off the asphalt without straining your back (or worse).
FACTORS AFFECTING BRAKING
Many factors affect how efficiently and effectively your motorcycle will slow and stop – as well as how you react in different situations. Here are just a few:
Road conditions – Any time the road surface is less than ideal (moisture, ice, oil, gravel, etc.), your braking ability is liable to be compromised. The key word in these situations is “smooth.” That is, be careful not to provide any sudden inputs to your motorcycle. Do everything – apply the brakes, accelerate, decelerate, turn the handlebars – as smoothly and gently as possible.
Modern brakes perform better in wet conditions than in the “old days,” but you should still expect a slight loss of effectiveness. When brakes are wet, the pads have to “squeegee” off a layer of water before they can effectively grab the rotors. Start braking sooner than you otherwise would in good conditions and be extra alert for situations in which a sudden stop may be required. Also, watch out for things like painted road stripes, manhole covers, steel construction plates, railroad tracks, oil spots at intersections, and the like – all of which can become as slick as ice in even a light drizzle.
Vehicle weight – Heavier motorcycles require more braking force to stop. There is some debate about whether heavier vehicles actually need more room to stop (it depends on road conditions, the quality of the brakes, and other factors), but there is no dispute that you’ll need to brake “harder” with a heavier bike. The important thing is to feel comfortable with the bike you are riding and the load you may be carrying.
If you’re not used to riding with a passenger or a full load of luggage, for instance, it’s probably a good idea to practice a little before hitting the road, in order to get the “feel” of your loaded motorcycle. Find an empty parking lot and practice slowing and stopping from various speeds. Pay attention to how the bike reacts, and to how much braking force is necessary to efficiently slow and stop the bike.
Likewise, if you’re riding a new bike or perhaps a rental (such as with the H.O.G.® Fly & Ride program), take some time to get the feel of it before you leave the lot. That way, if an emergency situation (or a yellow light, for that matter) does present itself, you’ll know what to expect when you apply the brakes.
Center of gravity – In addition to the gross weight of the vehicle, how that weight is distributed can make a difference. The higher the center of gravity, the more you’ll notice the extra weight when you slow and stop. When you load the bike, make an effort to load heavier items lower, such as in the saddlebags, as opposed to the Tour-Pak® or strapped to the luggage rack. And be sure to distribute it as evenly as possible from left to right, as well.
Be sure not to exceed your motorcycle’s maximum load! Consult your Owner’s Manual for specific information.
Condition of brakes and tires – As always, pay close attention to the condition of your tires and brakes. If either is in less-than-optimal condition, you’re asking for trouble. Tires should be inspected before every ride (as per a standard “T-CLOCS” inspection); consult your Owner’s Manual for more information about inspecting your brakes.
STOP HERE
A final thought: Don’t be afraid to practice! Find an empty parking lot or deserted road, and polish your skills. If you’ve taken a motorcycle safety course, do the drills you learned on the range. If you haven’t taken one, take one! The Rider’s Edge Skilled RiderCourse is also a great option for anyone looking to improve their skills.
Remember: Going fast can be fun, but knowing how to properly slow down and stop may save your life. The time you take to develop your braking skills is one of the most important motorcycling “investments” you can make.
